How to Choose a Collar Style

I've been watching a lot of late 30s/early 40s films lately - the men are so impeccably stylish and the women so confidently sexy.

What really has caught my eye in these films are the men's collar styles. Not only are they a means to showing off a great tie (and its knot) but also a great way to show off great facial features. So, which collar is best for your face?

from shirtsandties

button-down collar
Keep the buttons done up - that's what they're there for. Looks good under a sweater because it keeps the collar in place. Shouldn't be worn by full, angular or long faced men.

Tab collar (what a great tie he has on). Long and angular faces should stay away from these. Spread collar (popularly known as the albany collar in the 30s). Not suitable for a round or square face as it will make it look fuller.

straight collar
You'll see these on most shirts from the 70s. Not so good on a long or angular face.
Note the waffle weave straight bottom tie - for similar.

James Coburn - which collar works best for him?