Jan 12, 2010

Best Summer Suits for Men

Don't use the heat as an excuse to look like a schlump
remember the words of Hardy Amies,
'Never wear shorts except at water's edge.'

There are many options available 
for summer business formal wear that won't leave you looking like Mr. Roarke—although he did look wonderfully marvellous, didn't he?

Color:
  • A monochromatic look not only makes you look slimmer visually it makes you cooler mentally.
  • Don't think you can pull off a solid white or cream-colored suit without feeling like Colonel Sanders? Try light gray—everyone looks good in gray.
  • Feel like you're on safari in a tan suit? Stick with black in a light weight fabric.
  • Seersucker, too, Barber Shop Quartet? Try a Pin Stripe, Herringbone, Houndstooth or Prince of Wales Check.

Tie:
  • For a change, try a light color tie on a light color shirt.
  • If you can go without a tie in the summer, keep your shirt collar in your jacket. A spread collar is very 70s and not in a good way.

Shoes:
  • Loafers are shown all over for S/S 2010. For a refresher, check my post on loafers.
  • Suede and buck are the perfect alternative between Memorial Day and Labor Day.
  • Keep those handmade Italian leather sandals in your bag for the ride home, not the office.

Suitable Summer Suit Fabrics:

Poplin - a sturdy fabric that was originally made from silk, poplin can know be found in cotton, wool, silk, or rayon. Burberry uses a lot of poplin (think of the feel of their trench coat).

Linen
- stay away from low grade low ounce linen. You'll look like you slept in your suit by the time you get out of your car. 11-13 ounce linen will drape better and not be as wrinkly.

Wool crepe - a crepe under 11 ounces is pretty much approachable nine months of the year. Every time I see my seamstress she says to me, in her heavy Eastern European accent, 'Listen to me, get 99% wool, 1% lycra. I do this for 40 years I know what I'm talking about.' The word lycra, like the word spandex, creeps me out but I better listen to her or else.

Seersucker - Personally, I'm not a fan of the seersucker suit as it reminds me of a candy striper uniform. A seersucker sport coat paired with some high grade linen trousers or seersucker trousers paired with a linen shirt sits a little better with me.

Try a tone-on-tone shirt and tie for a change. 
Casual day? Leave the tie at home.
Don't think you can pull off a solid white or cream suit? Try gray - everyone looks good in gray. Of course, you'll have your shirt buttoned up during working hours.

Don't fear patterns. Glen Check/Prince of Wales Check is a great print for summer.

Vintage Lanvin

Jeanne Lanvin
1933

Jan 11, 2010

The Curse of Casual Friday


This is the post where your jaw drops and you call me 'old fashioned'.

I don't like casual days. I find them unprofessional. However, I'm also the one that doesn't like bare legs in the workplace.

At my first middle management job I came face to face with the curse of casual day. I was able to avoid the first few by playing dumb but my charade wouldn't last for long - my team was on to me. So, being the 'approachable' boss, I gave in. What was the problem? Well, you see, I have two wardrobes - my corporate costume and my real wardrobe. Let's just say the real wardrobe consists of lots of vintage and lots of black.

Ever have an unexpected emergency meeting pop up on casual day? Sure, I was wearing black denim, a silk t-shirt and a black blazer but I felt like a tool sitting down with the big wigs in their suits. Lesson learned.

Casual day attire for men in my books:
no tie

For women:
---


* Mr. Louisiana photo a fabulous gift from Could it be Madness-this?

Jan 10, 2010

6 Mens Boots

Wings and Horns (by Dayton)

Fiorentini + Baker

Frye

John Varvatos

Frye

Fiorentini + Baker
and his own boots are Kodiak

I had a brief two hour rendezvous this weekend and I'm not about wasting time. Many who know me are smirking as they read this - I know how to shop - I'm out as fast as I'm in. Needless to say, he and I got down to business lickity split. Shopping is too often a big waste of time unless you know exactly what you're looking for and where to find it. We went straight to Gravity Pope on 4th - which has the top selection of cool men's and women's boots in Vancouver - as well as the coolest women's clothes (along with Misch). Their one downfall - they run out of sizes quickly. Make a friend there.

You ask, 'Stacy, with such a big selection why did he only try these brands?' Because they were right in front of me when we walked in and he liked them (and I didn't want to get busted taking pictures in the shop). I could've spent our whole two hours there but after all it was a rendezvous and I did want some 'quality time'. I also recommend you try the NDC, MOMA, trippen, cydwoq, Adams and Gravity Pope, their in house label. The winner? John Varvatos side zip boot.

Jan 6, 2010

Dancing at the Cafe - Bande à Part aka Band of Outsiders

How to Tie a Scarf


wrap long end around twice and on the second wrap push the end through the top knot and pull down - like you're knotting a tie.
Voila - a knot that slides. For an ascot type look pull the knot tight and tuck it in.
via Esquire 1969.

Quote of the Week - Christian Dior


Simplicity, good taste and grooming are the three fundamentals of good dressing and these do not cost money.
Christian Dior






Jan 5, 2010

Design Lover: Harry Bertoia Spray Sculpture


Leave it to Antiques Roadshow to install this beauty into the gallery of my mind. How many designers can bankroll their careers off the royalties made on one of their first commercially available designs? Harry Bertoia did. In 1950, Bertoia began collaborating with furniture makers and marketers Florence and Hans Knoll. Bertoia's first piece he designed for Knoll was the chromium 'Model 420 Diamond' chair. The royalties made from the 'Model 420' enabled Bertoia to further pursue his love of metalwork and sculpture - which was put on hold during WWII due to metal shortages.

Bertoia seldom named his sculptures, and some are unsigned. Nevertheless, most of his sculptures are now known by the identification given to them by the Allentown Art Museum's 1975 catalogue accompanying a Bertoia exhibit (he passed away in 1978).

'Sprays' are bunches of stainless steel wires that sway when touched or are moved by air currents. They always have a twist where they are connected to their concrete base. Sizes vary from 12 to 50 inches.

You can buy one here.



How to Get a Runway Look for Under $200

Those of you that are friends of Bijou Living on Facebook will remember that I spent Boxing Day shopping on Etsy. I poked around a bit more and put together a Fendi Spring Summer 2010 inspired look for under $200 for you. For this look, wear your hair in a loose bun - see The Return of the Bun.

Fendi S/S 2010


Shopping online can be fun and save you a fortune but remember caveat emptor. Ask lots of questions, check feedback, ask about return policies, and get insurance for your package. In my 12 years of shopping and selling vintage online I've only had one bad experience. Remember, 99.9% of people are honest.

Jan 4, 2010

Men's Classic Look

If by some strange reason you get caught up in an unknown vortex that deposits you in another time, place and reality know you'll be ready to confront what awaits you if you're timeless in your dress and sensibilities.

On the other hand, if you've decided to consign all your old clothes and start fresh - buy the timeless pieces first (see above).

Dec 28, 2009

Cigarette Cases - Who Knew?

Would you believe me if I told you a cigarette case sold for £612,250** at the beginning of December and it wasn't the only one to pass the six digit mark? See the story here.*

I've always loved the look of vintage cigarette paraphernalia** - ashtrays, match tins, cigar boxes, cigarette cases, lighters, holders, smoking sets, tobacco jars, smoking jackets and slippers, the list goes on. Turns out there's a resurgence of the cigarette case/tin. With cigarettes now in those ridiculous zombie mouth picture packs and credit card slim technology the cases have become highly collectible and more difficult to find.

Some of the more collectible cases are those carried by soldiers in WWI & WWII some of which have been claimed to have stopped bullets - such as the one carried on D-Day by James Doohan aka Scotty (Star Trek), sterling silver and those with historical provenance. I'd go for the sterling silver ones as they'll only go up in price.

I've assembled a few photos of cases I found on Etsy. There are more to be found if you go to my Etsy men's favourites widget on the left. As Etsy is an online shopping source remember - caveat emptor.

Mid-century sterling silver grooved case. Available on Etsy here.

Pre 1949 sterling silver case from Siam. Available on Etsy here.

English sterling silver engraved case from 1916. WWI was 1914-1918.
Available on Etsy here.

Sterling silver case available on Etsy here

Post Korean war souvenir set. There are collectors out there that specialize in 'Japanese souvenir'
Available on Etsy here.

* I believe this is the big money case here.
**For the record, I don't smoke.

How to Choose a Collar Style


I've been watching a lot of late 30s/early 40s films lately - the men are so impeccably stylish and the women so confidently sexy.

What really has caught my eye in these films are the men's collar styles. Not only are they a means to showing off a great tie (and its knot) but also a great way to show off great facial features. So, which collar is best for your face?

from shirtsandties

button-down collar
Keep the buttons done up - that's what they're there for. Looks good under a sweater because it keeps the collar in place. Shouldn't be worn by full, angular or long faced men.

Tab collar (what a great tie he has on). Long and angular faces should stay away from these. Spread collar (popularly known as the albany collar in the 30s). Not suitable for a round or square face as it will make it look fuller.

straight collar
You'll see these on most shirts from the 70s. Not so good on a long or angular face.
Note the waffle weave straight bottom tie - for similar.

James Coburn - which collar works best for him?

Dec 22, 2009

Quote of the Week - Victor Borge

Santa Claus has the right idea. Visit people once a year.

I've been saving that photo for you all year! From my little family to yours, 'Happy Holidays'.
btw that's not my family in the photo.

Top 5 Best Last Minute Gifts


1. custom made wine basket
Fill it with smoked salmon pate, olive tapenade and antipasto, savory crackers, premium chocolates, decadent cookies, exquisite olive oils and vinegars, glass ware and decanters, and a fine selection of wine chosen by experts in the field. Skip the wicker basket if possible and go for something a little more chic.

2. a night in a five star hotel
sometimes it's just nice to sleep in different sheets.

3. classic appetizer/service plate with knife
I received one of these as a thank you gift and it is the best gift I ever received from someone I hardly knew. It's glass with silver trim and the knife has an abalone handle. I'm surprised by how often I use it and how many compliments I get on it. It's a little something to add flare to simple cheese and crackers. This is a nice looking one.

4. tickets to a show
I'd love to get these as I'm too cheap to buy them for myself. If they're into sports go for tickets to a game.

5. honesty
I'm sorry but our finances are a little tight this year.

Top 5 Worst Last Minute Gifts



1. Jams, jellies, preserves
I have about three jars of grape jelly in my fridge 2005-2008. They even moved apartments with me. I wish these could go to the food bank. Why is grape jelly purple?

2. Starbucks's paraphernalia
I'd rather have the cash than the gift card.

3. Mittens, scarves, toques
We have one month of not even really that cold weather in Vancouver. Do you know how many itchy toques I have?

4. Cheap wine
Unless it's a case of Bluberg I can use for risotto.

5. Scratch and win cards, lotto tickets
More desirable than the Starbuck's card though.

Oh - I'm so ungrateful.

Dec 21, 2009

10 Household Items to Use on Last Minute Wardrobe Malfunctions

  1. clear nail polish - Stops runs in your tights from going further. Dab some at each end of the snag.
  2. hairspray - Removes ink from vinyl fabrics. Test a small area to make sure it doesn't take the color out. Spritz a small amount on the ink and dab the spot out.
  3. petroleum jelly - Buffs up patent shoes and bags. Good for a little extra shine on the lips as well. Not too much though or it'll look like you just ate pork chops.
  4. candles - Rub on a sticky zipper to help it slide.
  5. fabric softener sheet - Gets rid of static from your clothes in a hurry. Rub it on the inside of the clingy piece of clothing and the part of your body it's clinging to. Curb fly away hair this way too.
  6. shaving razor - Use to shave pilling off sweaters or wool coats (check your sleeve bottom, I bet it's pilled). Shave in one direction. Don't push to hard or you'll make a hole.
  7. stud earring - Fix up a neckline that's plunging just a little too much by pinning it a bit with the stud.
  8. elastics - Keep your pants tucked in your boots by wrapping the elastic around the bottom.
  9. tape - Instant hem.
  10. pencil - Use it to push through pulls in a sweater. Put the tip of the pencil on the pull and push it through to the other side. Pull the yarn through from the inside.

Dec 20, 2009

Do you have any papers?


Oil - not so valuable when it's on your face.
Guys don't fear them - use them - they're called blotting papers. A forehead beaded with oil is not attractive. Tea tree papers are nice because tea tree has antibacterial qualities that may help your enlarged pores (because that's where the oil is coming from) ward off blemishes. Make sure you get the ones without powder or you'll look like Amadeus.

The Back 40